Remembering Xalteva Church, Granada, Nicaragua

3

December
2010

My first visit to Granada as an adult* during the summer of 2010 included an all-too-brief peek inside Xalteva Church, one of the city’s oldest.

I’d been told that a new organ had been installed, replacing the old (apparently, still present), and that it was worth having a look at.

In under ten minutes, I determined two things (in the middle of a service, no less): (1) no organ was located in the usual places, and (2) no organist was playing during the service.

However, the musicians performing—a small wind band—made some extraordinary music to accompany the Mass. Whatever tune they played was downright funky and noticeably secular in feel, yet somehow it didn’t strike me as out of place. The only instrument I remember with any accuracy was a fiberglass sousaphone, played by a musician who gave it some serious life.

I wish I could have stayed longer and taken in more of the band’s performance, but it was not to be.

My time inside the church was so brief that the memory of it feels more like a dream. As I was leaving, I took a photo of the side entrance to help remind me of the experience (below).

Iglesia de Xalteva, Granada, Nicaragua

*I visited Granada as child before my family emigrated to the US, yet I don’t remember the city proper, only the Cocibolca Jockey Club located on the outskirts.

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